It's cliched, but it's true: New York Fashion Week is back and better than ever. A pandemic and an oligarchical coup d'état (1) have got nothing on New York's most creative minds.
On February 7th, I got the fantastic opportunity to attend a Runway 7 fashion show in the heart of Times Square.
I originally planned to attend Runway 7's Made In India show on February 6th, but I was fortunate enough to work as a dresser at the Christopher John Rogers show. (2) When CJR calls, you answer!
Runway 7 is a platform for smaller brands to showcase their collections outside the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) schedule.
Whether your Instagram account has five hundred followers or five million, Runway 7 guarantees press coverage, including a Times Square billboard and photography by Getty Images. They also offer full production support, meaning designers can focus on their collections rather than show planning or model casting.
It's an excellent opportunity for potential customers to see a brand's clothes in action, as many designers travel internationally to exhibit their work.
While each of the three collections was stunning in its own way, you know I have my thoughts. I'll pick the best and worst looks from each designer. Read on...
Due to a press pass mix-up, I missed the first half of M'Andina's Fall/Winter 2025 collection. What I ended up seeing was intriguing.
Founded in Peru by Carolina Rendon, M'Andina is a shoe brand first. The website does not currently sell clothing, so debuting its first collection at New York Fashion Week was a considerable risk for the brand.
The collection didn't have a single standard color palette, and the fabric selection was varied. While one long-sleeve blouse and matching skirt were made of thick, dark teal velvet, another look used light, washed brown cotton (similar to Pantone's Mocha Mousse).
I loved the flow of many of the dresses and cardigans. M'Andina's models threw their shawls in the air every few steps on the runway.
My favorite look would have to be the Malibu Blue two-piece set with long fringe. I adore a lariat necklace when worn with a boatneck top, and the clunkiness of the pumps?! They clash perfectly. My only wish is that the rosary were entirely silver to match the shoes.
If you could see how the skirt moved down the runway, you would be just as obsessed as I was. Surprisingly energetic, the piece bounced with every step the model took.
I'm calling it right now: 2025 is the year of fringe. Picture this set with high-heeled black boots and a Goyard tote bag; you've got the perfect corporate OOTD.
Unfortunately, I do have to pick the worst look. This unwanted award goes to the calf-length grass-green dress with the long fringed cardigan.
I know. I'm a hypocrite. I said what I said about fringe, but something about this look is so discordant. The stripes hidden underneath the structure of the shawl needed to have been somehow incorporated into the dress. Worn with brown zebra print Chelsea boots, the fringe feels out of place.
The fact that this was M'Andina's first apparel collection speaks to their dedication to the craft. I'm super excited to see where they end up. Here's to dreaming about a fringe comeback!
Many fashion designers come from a creative background, whether having pursued the major in college or worked in a related field. However, for Tijen Roshko, nuclear physics is where her interests lie.
After majoring and mastering the science, Roshko returned to university in the late '80s to receive her Bachelor of Arts in Interior Design. Her creative spark only flourished as she founded Kolye TJN in 2020 amidst the pandemic.
"Our goal is to create accessories that are more than just fashion statements; they are extensions of the wearer's personality and values," Roskho explained to Fashion Forward Magazine.
The Winnepeg-based brand works solely with felt, meaning that the dresses exhibited on the runway were not designed nor made by Kolye TJN. For that reason, I will only be reviewing the felt accessories.
The collection itself was gorgeous. I enjoyed the use of color in contrast with the (mainly) black-and-white dresses. Mid-range accessory brands are still a largely novel concept, and Kolye TJN's entry into this category deserves some kudos.
Roshko incorporated the same flower motif throughout all the tops, headbands, and skirts, excluding one look. Paired with a sheer white shirt dress, the black geometric headband in the second look was the least developed design in the collection.
The piece sat awkwardly on the model's face. As she walked, it bumped into her left eye, and I could see her squint in pain.
I hate to revisit the same marker of success in any one show, but cohesion defines a brand. If a consumer can't tell that two pieces come from the same designer, you have a problem.
The configuration of the headband and shoulder pieces did not fit with the rest of Kolye TJN's superbly designed accessories. Knowing what your brand stands for, what makes you you, is incredibly important for any company. It's what makes or breaks you.
Coming out of that business student rant, my favorite piece of Koyle TJN's F/W 2025 collection is the high-waisted felt overskirt. I'm a sucker for the color red, but that's not what cements this piece for me.
What I honestly adore is the skirt's versatility. Wear it over a black miniskirt? Check. A pair of jeans? Check. Nothing underneath? Check!
I said I wouldn't talk about the dresses, but whoever styled this look did a fantastic job. I love how the low-cut neckline returns your attention to the felt numbers.
We should introduce more women in STEM to the fashion industry. Tijen Roshko certainly exemplifies her industry.
Although Ren Haixi may not be a household name, you have definitely seen her designs. Celebrites by the likes of Billie Eilish, Megan Fox, and Coco Jones have sported her risquè pieces. Most notably, Kendall and Kylie Jenner wore her distressed lavender set for a Kylie Cosmetics photoshoot.
A recent addition to Forbes 30 Under 30, Haixi's brand is incredibly eco-conscious. The China-born designer uses zero-waste engineering techniques to turn fabric scraps into couture. (Fun fact for the fashion school students: Haixi is a 2020 Parsons graduate.)
Ren Haixi's designs were by far the best of the three brands. Her use of recycled materials, reinvented workwear, and recent trends contributed to the collection's success.
I love a good, purposeful, unfinished hem, and Haixi delivered time and time again. The deconstructed two-piece suit was insane to see in person. The intricate detail that had to be applied to this look for it to look incomplete is a marvel in and of itself. I'm interested in learning how Haixi mass-produces this look. Does she sew with abandon or replicate it every time?
Lamentably, even my favorite pieces have their flaws.
Haixi's clothing photographs extremely well for magazines, but it may not be the ideal choice for the runway. Models kept pulling down their skirts and readjusting their tops, while her previous collections were much more suited to moving with the models as they walked.
On the opposite side of the coin is the brand's deconstructed bridal-themed set. Haixi is a made-to-measure brand, as reported by Forbes, which makes no sense when you examine the fit of the tube top. The thick fabric slowly fell as the model walked down the runway. I was on the edge of my seat, worried that it would drop away altogether.
While I appreciate the feminist concept of a woman's purity on her wedding night, the top's poor design took away from any puritanical revelations I might have had.
Ren Haixi is undoubtedly a brand you should watch in the coming years. I see her joining the CFDA's official schedule by 2028 at the latest.
Runway 7 had its ups and downs, from the gorgeous collections to the handling of our attendance. I brought a photographer (shoutout Sophia!) and two friends, who masqueraded as my fellow journalists for the night. I'm not one to lie, but I'll do anything in the name of fashion.
The 7 PM show started at 7:40 PM, and yet still our press passes were nowhere to be found. I appreciate that I could enter the show for free, let alone cover it, but we were still disappointed that it took us so long to get to our seats (or lack thereof). (3)
My favorite collection was Ren Haixi, point blank period. Her interpretation of corporate wear was thrilling, and I can't wait to see what she does next.
Runway 7, I'll be back!
Footnotes
You know how I stand. #onlyevervotedfromwomenforpresident
404 Error readers, I can't tell you how badly I want to share what it was like dressing for CJR, Juzui, and Derek Lam. You deserve the behind-the-scenes look at New York Fashion Week. Alas, I'm not allowed to, per the agency that hired me. Trust me, we WILL be sitting front row one day. #manifestation #mayemusk #iwillgiveyouthedeetsinpersonjustask
Same here. #iwillgiveyouthedeetsinpersonjustask
All photography by Sophia Giulietti. Check out her page!
First M'Andina photo by Eugene Gologursky at Getty Images
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